Small holes, loose hems and broken zippers are common clothing problems that could be easily fixed. Learning how to mend these items will make your clothes last longer, and reduce the amount of waste we produce by throwing away or buying new clothing.
Visible mending involves using thread in the fabric of the garment to repair or patch the hole. There are a few different techniques for visible mending, including:
Reinforcement
The present invention relates to a flexible reinforcement for garments that is able to return to its original shape when deformed. The flexible reinforcement is formed at least in part from a filament or thin metal wire that has been formed into a helical coil spring.
The individual turns or coils of the flexible reinforcement are closely-wound, but they are spaced such that there is a small amount of gap between adjacent coils or turns. The flexible reinforcement also has ends covered with caps that are shaped to prevent them from punching through the cloth of the garment and/or poking the wearer.
The ends of the flexible reinforcement are inserted into a cloth channel that is sewn into the shoulder region of a suit jacket. The line of stitch that is used to reinforce the edge of the garment is a bar tack stitch, which is one of Federal Standard stitch types 401, 101 and/or 203.
Patching
One of the go-to techniques for mending garments is patching. You can use a piece of fabric that closely matches the original material and colour, sewing it to the damaged area to cover it and restore strength. This can be invisible (great for holes in jeans knees!) or visible, depending on the fabric you choose.
You’ll also need some other basics, such as scissors and needles (hand and sewing machine). It’s a good idea to pre-wash your patch fabric before using it in case of any shrinkage.
If you want to make your patching as invisible as possible, iron on some lightweight fusible interfacing over the wrong side of the fabric to adhere it to the garment. Then, sew around the edges of the patch and the hole with thread that closely matches the fabric in your garment. This is similar to darning, the traditional way of repairing holes in knit fabrics. But it’s easier and quicker, making it a great choice for urgent repairs!
Embroidery
Reinforcing materials at vulnerable areas of the garment like elbows or knees helps prevent premature wear and tear, keeping it looking new longer. This simple technique uses a piece of cloth reinforcement that can be purchased at most fabric or craft stores. It is then pinned to the inside of the garment and hand-sewed using sewing thread and a hand sewing needle.
Embroidery is the process of stitching patterns onto textiles with thread/yarn and holds cultural significance across many different civilizations. Adding embroidery to clothing can make it more personal and give it a more custom look. Embroidery can also be used as a decorative technique and cover stains and tears in fabric.
When repairing holes in embroidery, it is important to avoid pulling on the loose threads as this can cause them to unravel. If the embroidery snags, putting a low-heat iron over the area for ten seconds can help soften the threads and melt them back into the rest of the embroidery.
Repair Shops
Aside from the aforementioned patching and embroidery, specialized garments like dresses and coats can also be reworked at clothes repair shops. The Restory, for instance, offers on-demand online clothing repairs for luxury fashion. Their team of artisans can restore and rework eco-friendly knitwear, shirts and blouses, suits and jackets, trousers and jeans, dresses and skirts, and coats and outerwear.
The research re-conceptualizes barriers to garment repair as a function of skills, tools, priorities and perceived expense. It found that having access to repair tools is positively correlated with self-repair. It was further observed that young consumers, who utilize unpaid repair more often, live with older family members (presumably a mother) that can carry out such repairs for them.
These findings can be leveraged by brands to promote the value of mending to their consumers. Extending the lifespan of garments can help reduce demand for new apparel, minimize textile waste and increase customer loyalty. It also helps to support the principles of sustainable and circular fashion and can serve as a differentiation point.